As the eco-concious consumer becomes more savvy, she naturally steers towards natural and organic beauty products in order to avoid the potential risks associated with the chemicals contained in mass-market products. To capitalise on this trend, more and more cosmetic companies are jumping on the natural and organic bandwagon. Organic claims are featured extensively on many products on the shelf. But how can we tell which products are the real deal? Is there an easy way to distinguish between truth and hype?

As the eco-concious consumer becomes more savvy, she naturally steers towards natural and organic beauty products in order to avoid the potential risks associated with the chemicals contained in mass-market products. To capitalise on this trend, more and more cosmetic companies are jumping on the natural and organic bandwagon. Organic claims are featured extensively on many products on the shelf. But how can we tell which products are the real deal? Is there an easy way to distinguish between truth and hype?

Questionable safety of cosmetic ingredients

A recent survey by the Environmental Working Group, found that nearly 90 percent of the 10,500 ingredients used in personal care products have never been evaluated for safety. Human skin is permeable to all chemicals to some degree. Scientists have found many common cosmetic ingredients in human tissues, including industrial plasticizers called phthalates in urine, preservatives called parabens in breast tumor tissue, and persistent fragrance components like musk xylene in human fat. A recent study showing feminization of human male babies in the U.S. linked to a common fragrance component (diethyl phthalate) joins a small but growing number of studies that serve as scientific red flags. Another study, conducted by the University of California, revealed that more than 58,000 hairdressers, manicurists and cosmetologists developed cancer at four times the rate of the general population.

Many chemicals in cosmetics don't even cause signs of toxicity on the skin but still contain systemic toxins. The cosmetics industry is not required to conduct tests to determine the short and long-term effects of their products on consumers. And why would they? As long as we continue to buy products that contain these harmful chemicals, they'll keep making them, and make billions of dollars in the process!

Natural deception

Nowhere does the idea of "natural" or "organic" take a more gratuitous bruising than the cosmetics industry. The trend today is to see long chemical names followed by "(derived from coconut oil)". We are led to believe that it must be natural and safe because it's made from coconut oil. In reality, these so-called naturally derived ingredients are manufactured via a synthetic processes, and many of the processing aids and impurities in cosmetic chemicals are linked to asthma, learning disabilities, infertility, birth defects and cancer.

For example, to create Cocamide DEA, a foaming agent in some shampoos from coconut oil, a synthetic chemical (and known carcinogen), Diethanolamine, is used in the process. So even though ingredients such as Cocamide DEA may be sourced from coconut oil, the fact that the coconut has to go through a synthetic process with added processing agents that are toxic, means the end result (the cocamide DEA) is no longer natural, nor safe!

The moral of this story?... don't trust 'naturally derived' ingredients - they are usually made with toxins.

Fake organics

Now, let's look at 'organic'. With so many product claiming various levels of 'organicness' on the shelves, let's have a deeper look into which ones are real and which ones are fake.

Most cosumers understand the term "organic," to mean that the plants are ‘grown and cultivated without the use of chemicals'. That is the conclusion most cosmetics companies would like us to make when we see the term "organic" on a label.

Some of those companies are cynically using the chemistry definition of "organic" - meaning a compound that contains a carbon atom. Carbon is found in anything that has ever lived. By using this definition of organic, they are saying that a petrochemical preservative called Methyl Paraben is "organic" because it was formed from leaves that rotted over thousands of years to become crude oil, which was then used to make this preservative.

An increasing number of companies are now claiming to use "organic" herbs in their products. But what about the rest of the ingredients... are they guaranteed to be safe? Isn't there an authority that governs the use of the term "organic" on labels? Unfortunately, the answer is NO. As the regulations stand at the moment, any company can claim any kind of organic claim without having to verify the truthfulness of that claim. The term 'organic' has become another 'natural'. They are both terms that are used to lull the consumer into a false sense of security... disguising the true nature of the ingredients in the formula, which are usually toxic synthetic chemicals, like those used in the mainstream beauty products.

But there is a way you can find the true greens amongst the fakes! Searching for products with the logo of a certifying body on the label is the only way you can guarantee the organic authenticity and integrity of every ingredient in the product. Only certified organic products can bear a certifiers logo. Only certified organic products are regulated by government and independent certification bodies. Without the logo, any 'organic' claim means nothing, as it cannot be verified. Here is an example of a logo of an internationally recognised certifying body:

Let's go shopping!

Let's compare a product that claims to be natural and organic to a product that is actually certified organic, and see for ourselves the huge difference in the quality and safety of the ingredients.

It is a legal requirement that all skin care products be labelled with their ingredients in descending order. To assess the relative quantities of the ingredients in the products, an interesting and valuable rule of thumb is as follows: divide the ingredients list into thirds: the top third usually contains 90-95% of the product, the middle third usually contains 5-8% and the bottom third, 1-3%.

Here is the ingredient list of a "natural" and "organic" body moisturiser from a well known "natural" skin care company:

Apricot Cream

Natural or Organic ingredients include:

1. Water (Deionised),

2. Isopropyl Palmitate (Palm Oil Derivative),

3. Apricot Kernel Oil,

4. Bis-Diglyceryl Caprylate /Caprate /Isostearate /Stearate /Hydroxystearate Adipate (Vegetable Triglyceride),

5. Glyceryl Stearate SE (Vegetable Derived),

6. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Glycerin derived emollient),

7. Ceteareth - 12 (Organic Emulsifier),

8. Tocopherol Oil (Vitamin E),

9. Chamomile Extract,

10. Sage Extract,

11. Linden Extract (Lime Blossom Extract),

12. Balm Mint Extract,

13. Shea Butter (From Karite),

14. Wheat Germ Oil,

15. Carrot Oil,

16. Cetyl Alcohol (Organic Co-emulsifier),

17. Sodium Hydroxide (pH Adjuster),

18. Sorbic Acid (Organic Compound),

19. Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E Derivative),

20. Methylparaben (Organic Compound),

21. Propylparaben (Organic Compound),

22. Imidazolidinyl Urea (Organic Compound),

23. Fragrance,

24. FD&C Yellow No.5, D&C Red No.33.

Content: Apricot Oil (2.5%)

Take note of the last point that says "Content: Apricot Oil (2.5%)". Notice that Apricot Oil is no. 3 on the list. Because cosmetic manufacturers are required to list the ingredients in descending order this means every individual ingredient listed AFTER Apricot oil is in the product at amounts LESS than 2.5% by volume.

This means that about 90% of that product is water and Isopropyl Palmitate. Isopropyl Palmitate, a synthetic chemical, is a derivative of Isopropyl Alcohol, synthetic alcohol, and Palmitic Acid, a fatty acid from palm oil. It is known to cause skin irritations and dermatitis in rabbits and has been shown to have comedogenic (acne promoting) properties.

No's 4, 5 and 6 are all produced by chemical reactions between of various fatty acids and glycerol (synthetic glycerine). They are largely synthetic and have been shown to cause allergies and dermatitis.

No.7 is a synthetic emulsifier that may be contaiminated with ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, both known carcinogens. It's definitely not 'organic', but since the product isn't certified, they don't have to back-up their claim.

No's 8 - 15 are natural ingredients (that most likely have been grown using pesticides and herbicides). Used in very small amounts.

No.16 may be natural or synthetic and has been shown to cause contact eczema. It's definitely not 'organic', but since the product isn't certified, they don't have to back-up their claim.

No. 17 is otherwise known as Caustic Soda and is extremely alkaline and corrosive.

No. 18. Sorbic acid was once isolated from the mountain ash berry, but is now chemically synthesised and is a toxic preservative.

No.19 is synthetic Vitamin E.

No's 20-22 are toxic and allergenic preservatives that have been found to mimic hormones and potentially wreak havoc with our endocrine system.

No. 23. Most likely synthetic, and may contain phthalates that have linked to birth defects.

No. 24. Synthetic colours that could be potentially carcinogenic.

Now, let's look at an ingredient list of a certified organic body moisturiser. This ingredient list says:

Intensive Body Cream - Certified organic

1. Organic Aloe Vera,

2. Purified Water,

3. Organic Sunflower oil,

4. Organic Avocado oil,

5. Organic Shea butter,

6. Organic Sugar-Cane Ethanol,

7. Sclerotium gum,

8. Non-GMO Lecithin,

9. Organic Bitter Orange Extract,

10. Organic Geranium Essential Oil,

11. Organic Olive juice extract,

12. Organic Patchouli Essential Oil,

13. Non-GMO Xanthan Gum.

No. 1 from organic aloe vera plants, with potent healing properties to regenerate the skin.

No. 2. Purified Water

No. 3 is cold-pressed from organic sunflower seeds, with emollient and skin softening properties.

No. 4 is cold-pressed from organic avocado fruit, very nourishing for dry skin.

No. 5 is from organic shea fruit, fantastic at preventing stretchmarks and contains a natural sunscreen.

No. 6 is from fermented organic sugar cane. Is a solvent for the organic herbs.

No. 7 is a natural gum to soften the skin and thicken the product.

No. 8 is from non-genetically modified soybean oil, a natural moisturising factor contain in healthy skin.

No. 9 is from organic bitter orange fruit, has natural antibacterial and anti-fungal properties.

No. 10 is distilled from organic geranium leaves, a natural aromatic plant that is also beneficial for the skin.

No. 11 is from olive juice, a natural antioxidant that protects the skin from uv damage.

No. 12 is distilled from organic patchouli grass, a natural aromatic plant that is also beneficial for the skin.

No. 13 is a natural gum to soften the skin and thicken the product.

Rancid Natural Emollients

Natural oils used in cosmetics should be cold pressed. The refined vegetable oils found on supermarket shelves and many health food stores which lack colour, odour and taste are devoid of nutrients, essential fatty acids, vitamins and unsaponifiables - all valuable skin conditioning agents! They also contain poisonous "trans" fatty acids as a result of the refining process.

Another important factor to consider with creams made from plant oil is the use-by date. The most beneficial plant oils (like rosehip, borage and evening primrose oils) are polyunsaturated, which means they oxidise and go rancid fairly quickly (about 6 months). Rancid oils are harmful, they form free-radicals which damage and age your skin.

How to protect yourself from harmful cosmetics

The best way to ensure you get the freshest, most natural and potent skin care is to look for certified organic products. This way, you can be sure that there are no synthetic chemicals or dangerous preservatives in the product. To confirm whether the product is certified organic or not, is to look for the logo of an independent certifying body on the label. That's your guarantee of purity.